pinkgeometric

So I left Dalat in a triumphal mood, ready for a few last hours in Cairo before my flight back home. I said goodbyes to all the friends I’d made - the Bedouin guys, the Koreans, Swiss, German and Russians, then got onto the night bus. This was where my Egypt trip was to descend into a hellish nightmare.

Awaking in Cairo after the 9hr journey, the bus arrived at the bus station, bleary eyed at 6.30am. After grabbing my bags it was then that I discovered my (new) iPod was missing from my bag; stolen from a zipped up side pocket. This surprised me somewhat because my bag was by my legs under the seat all night on a pretty plush bus. I’m now convinced that a girl sitting behind me had reached down under the seat and taken it (and on her, I wish a life time of terrible misery). So, amid all the rushing and confusion at the bus station, I knew my only hope was to get a police statement for travel insurance. I soon found out it would be easier to get blood from a stone. There was a police station nearby but it took ages to try and explain what had happened and get a statement - no one spoke much English so I had to resort to the usual exadurated hand actions. I was told over and over various things - that I’d have to go here and there, that they couldn’t give me a statement etc. So after getting wound up in frustration, I was eventually taken by the chief officer and brought into his office. Here I was told I could make a report but I’d have to wait two hours until the Captain came on duty. I patiently waited. He eventually turned up and was actually very helpful, making phone enquiries along with his team of bumbling men. He agreed to write a statement. An hour and a half later, he proudly finished writing his 3 sheets of A4 Arabic report. Great. But now it needed a police stamp which happened to be at another police station a few miles away. So now I had to go in a taxi with another police officer to get the stamp. But low and behold, there I was told they could only give me the report the next day - some sort of policy. I was flying home that day. I let out a kind of demented laugh - I’d been with the police for five hours and now, at the end of it I couldn’t even take a copy of the statement. It had all been a waste of time.

Now, with my plans all set back, I decided to forget about the police palaver. I headed to a tourist market to quickly grab and barter for some souvenirs and gifts to take back home. Crazily busy and gasping for water, laden with tacky Egyptian statues and a huge backpack, I left the market. Now with the clock ticking for the plane, I got on the local airport bus. Big mistake - I’d forgotten it was Cairo traffic and it was rush hour. The bus crept along, stopping it seemed at every local stop. After nearly an hour on the bus, I started panicking. I jumped off and waved down a taxi - using the last few pounds I had left, it took me to the airport. Staggering out and through the terminal doors, I put my bags on the security belt and through they went. Now for me - I went through the scanner and towards the waiting security police. “No! Closed!”, he barked.

It was all minutes too late. Despite my countless protests, I was just handed back my bags and passport - that was it. No help, no advice. I could even see the departure gate with BMI London on it - it was like being stuck in a war zone having just missed the last flight out. I wanted to sit down and cry - cry 29 year old man’s tears. Despite my flying fears, I would have happily skipped onto that plane if it only had one wing. Now, still in grubby unwashed clothes, I was stuck ticketless, moniless, homeless, ipodless in this wretched city with no clue what to do.

I eventually found myself back in Cairo city centre, got myself a room in a hostel and went to bed; a fitful sleep of fears of being trapped in Cairo for good.

The next morning, I headed to the BMI sales office where I’d been advised to go to. As I guessed, I was to have to pay out for a new ticket - a final big kick in the teeth. I had no choice - I paid up and headed straight for the airport again. Four hours too early but happily knowing I’d soon be back in the loving, Motherly arms of dear old London town.

Unfortunately the trek up Mt Sinai was cancelled due to some kind of flooding on the road to get there. And I don’t have the time to fit it in for another day - shame. However, since I’ve been in Dahab I’ve been suffering with a bit of a dodgy stomach and have overdone it in the sun so been taking it easy, so it’s probably a bit of a blessing in disguse really. Being stuck up some 2500m revered mountain without any kind of toilet facilities could have been potentially disasterous…

Anyhow, I’ve been relaxing and doing some more snorkelling at some different dive sites which has been good. I’ve also been hanging out at the ‘camp’ where I’m staying - it’s not really a hotel or hostel, more like little huts with a central communal area. It’s really nice and sociable and the place is run by local Bedouin guys who like to make a fire at night and sit round it making endless cups of local sweet black tea.

There’s a friendly Korean couple, a jolly Swiss guy, a boisterous German and two laughing Russians. But people come and go all the time. I check out today though, ready to catch the nightbus back to Cairo.

More photos here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37851&l=d1d6c&id=511901111

Spent the day snorkelling. Dahab is a big diving and snorkelling place so it’s great fun swimming with the fishes and floating over the coral. Not sure about this diving business - maybe if I had more time and money…

Got a final few things planned here for my last days before heading back to Cairo - more snorkelling and then a trek up Mount Sinai tomorrow night. However, since I arrived here I’ve been exhausted and have just wanted to laze around. All that rushing about through Egypt must have caught up with me.

I’ve added a few more photos here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37851&l=d1d6c&id=511901111

Tired of expensive tours and A/C tourist coaches, I decided to take an independent trip to see the Valley of the Kings. I took a local ferry across to the West Bank of Luxor, hired a rickety old bicycle, loaded up on water and set out on the 8 km ride up the winding valley road. With the blazing hot sun beating down and the steady ascent into the mountains, it was hard work but made it eventually. I even managed to blag a cheap student entry ticket too.

The tombs were pretty cool but so hot down inside them (if that makes sense). Some contain beautiful coloured wall paintings, others are impressive just for the labrinyth of rooms and tunnels that lead down to the tomb.

That evening, I took the nightbus to Dahab which is where I arrived this morning. What a nightmare journey! It ended up being 16 hours stuck on a bus, which although was a big coach, was still cramped for poor lanky me. Arrrgh! However, I’m here now in the lovely small resort of Dahab.

It’s such a change from previous places in Egypt - a totally different vibe; very laid back and chilled. It’s like Thailand beach life (although the beaches not being that good - stony, desert sand, so best to get a sun lounger.) The sea is lovely and is meant to be great for snorkelling which I’ll do tomorrow - all this with the dramatic Sinai mountains as a backdrop (and oddly, Saudi Arabia visible across the Red Sea).

Tomorrow night I leave Luxor on a dreaded 12hr overnight bus journey bound for Dahab (see map). It’s going to be a bit of a nightmare but I’m now eager to get to the coast and do some snorkelling/lazing around on a beach.

Went to the huge temple of Karnak today - very impressive but nearly melted away in the heat. I think I’m all templed-out now. Not sure if I can fit in Valley of the Kings etc…

Things I like about Egypt:

- Donkeys
- Kushari food (tasty mixture of weird stuff)
- Lovely fruit juices
- Getting a bargain
- The old stuff

Here’s some photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=37851&l=d1d6c&id=511901111

While In Aswan I saw the famous Abu Simbel temple located all the way down at the bottom of Lake Nasser. It’s a bit of a trek to get there, involving getting up at 3am to catch a bus that takes 3 hrs to drive there - so early! That was NOT good getting up for that (it’s early to avoid the heat). However it was well worth the effort - the temple is really impressive - a massive structure built in the side of a mountain. I’ve actually seen so many temples etc, that it’s becoming hard to take them all in and appreciate it all - there’s so much cool old stuff here; no wonder they gave stuff away to other countries (ie. USA).

For the past 3 days I’ve been in a felucca boat - a small wooden sail boat - drifting up the Nile towards Luxor. This was a great few days - there were 7 of us on the boat, all really cool, friendly people (Ozzies, Americans - the usual travellers). It was so relaxing after rushing around the country. Campfires in the desert, sipping beers, sleeping under the stars etc. The captain of the boat was great and his crew prepare all your meals for you, so you can just lie back and watch the sun go down…

I’m now in Luxor, which seems quite nice. So many temples and tombs to see although I’m not sure how much more I can take in before the beach and sea beckons me…

After a second day in Cairo, visiting the massive and impressive Egyptian Museum and getting lost in the Bizaars of Islamic cairo (not to mention more dodgy hassling) I got the night train down to Aswan. This is miles away - all the way down to the bottom of Egypt.

The journey was really good although with the train being delayed by 4 hours it was a massive 15 hour trip, arriving in Aswan early afternoon. I enjoyed relaxing on the train though - so chilled out after manic Cairo.

I met some good people on the journey, but now I’m booked to stay here for one night and do a whole bunch of sightseeing stuff. All being well I’m off to see the famous Abu Simbel temple tomorrow (3am start to avoid heat!) and then a boat trip up the Nile for 3 days…

I would try and get some pictures sorted out but Egyptian internet/technology ain’t that hot.

Well I arrived here safe and sound after the dreaded flight - it’s the taking off I don’t like; I’m getting more nervy each time. Although oddly, I felt perfectly relaxed in the back of a battered old taxi, weaving through the manic Cairo traffic on the way to the hostel.

I’ve had a pretty active first day after crashing out last night - although not without incidents…I went to the Pyramids of Giza (7th Wonder of the World etc etc). They are pretty cool and impressive although I have to say that the amount of hassle you get from dodgy Egyptian touts and scammers ruins it abit. I like Cairo but it’s a pretty tough place to travel in (unless you’re cocooned on a tourist bus). I’ve met lots of ‘helpful’ egyptians but they seem to lead you down the wrong street all the time (quite literally). So a bit annoying, especially at the pyramids. It was hard to wonder round and ‘lose yourself’ in the mystery of it all when you’ve got people plonking traditional garb on your head, shoving ‘free gifts’ in your hand or trying to get you to jump on their horse.

But yeah, the pyramids are huge - I went in one of them which was really hot an cramped. I also went on a camel ride around the desert area surronding the pyramids - it’s a bumpy ride on those camels.

Cairo reminds me of Hanoi in Vietnam. Crazy traffic, very busy, very tatty but lots of colour and character.

Well, I’m all set to go now. I’ve packed my rucksack, polished my sandals and memorised the guidebook. I’ve kind of got a rough travel plan but it’s going to be pretty tight to fit it all into two weeks.

Have a look at the map; I’m going to spend a few days in Cairo, go all the way down to Aswan, up to Luxor and then go across to the coast at Dahab in Sinai, before trekking up Mount Sinai then head back to Cairo.

I’ve got the usual pre-flight nerves but once we land in Cairo I’ll feel fine and ready to go.

Hope you like the blog re-vamp!

A few weeks ago I bought a flight to Cairo…I felt it was time to do a bit more travelling and exploring the world; plus it would be great to get some sun before we head into the winter months.

So I’m flying out next Monday 13th Oct and will be backpacking my way around Egypt for two weeks. I’ve kinda got a route planned using the trusty guidebook but for now I’ve got a few nights booked in a hostel in Cairo and have just exchanged some currency: Egyptian Pound.

So pyramids, temples and lots of sand here I come!

Watch this space as I blog about the trip…